To the waterfalls: Pilgrimage in Haiti

Thousands of pilgrims have made their annual journey to the waterfalls of Haiti. This is a blend of Christian and Voodoo tradition, with a dose of partying thrown into the mix. People bring candles and offerings to the 100-foot high waterfalls. Some pray for luck and cures, others for a good harvest or political stability, and yet others enjoy shots of homemade moonshine. The waters impart good fortune to those who journey there.

This is pilgrimage connected to the seasons and politics of Haiti, as well as a place shared by multiple traditions. The activity at the waterfalls, as varied as it is, relates to both Voodoo and Christian divine female figures:

In the nearby town of Saut d’Eau, pilgrims converged on the local church to pray to the Virgin Mary of Mount Carmel, closely associated with the Voodoo goddess of Erzulie. Saut d’Eau’s mystique owes to a 19th century legend that an image of the virgin appeared in the waterfalls.

Another source says that on July 16, 1847, the Virgen del Carmen appeared atop a palm tree, and pilgrims gather each July 16 to pray for healing and blessings.

This image of the offerings is very interesting — money, candles, photos, aromatic leaves:

 

Stunning photo of Kaaba

Pilgrims circumambulate the Kaaba during Haaj in Mecca. Credit: Jennifer Nkem-Eneanya, konnectafrica.net

An amazing shot of the Kaaba from Jennifer Nkem-Eneanya at konnectafrica.net.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-middle-east-11757499

Millions of Muslim pilgrims circumambulate the Kaaba during Hajj, a major pilgrimage to Mecca that serves as one of the five pillars of Islam.  Hajj is required for all Muslims capable of making the journey during their lifetimes.  The ritual circumambulation is called the Tawaf, and pilgrims walk seven times around the Kaaba, the central structure in the Grand Mosque of Mecca.  There are some nice shots of the Kaaba in the video here, which discusses the design of the door.  The Kaaba is 60 feet square, made of stone, with its walls covered in black cloth — the building is believed to have been constructed by Ibrahim.

Roundup of pilgrimage stories in the news

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  Al-Aqsa Mosque in Jerusalem. Photo Credit: Wikimedia Commons

  Conflicts in Iraq and Israel have affected not only access to pilgrimage sites, but also have affected people’s desire to visit sites.  I’ve said previously that pilgrimage is a barometer of political stability and pluralism, as well as an economic force in various communities (for good or for ill).  Now, pilgrimage sites and agencies struggle to convince visitors that the destinations are safe.

• The Hajj pilgrimage this coming October is a large one — with an estimated 3% increase in numbers to almost 2 million Muslim pilgrims to the Saudi city of Mecca, earning Saudi Arabia US$8.5 billion dollars.
• In Madhya Pradesh, India, 10 Hindu pilgrims were killed and dozens injured in a stampede at a temple.  The stampeded occurred when rope barriers sectioning off thousands of pilgrims gave way.  According to the New York Times, some estimates were as high as half a million pilgrims at the site — the NYT sets the death toll in the dozens, some jumping off a crowded bridge.  The accident happened during the Parikrama or circumambulation of a hill on a particular time of the Hindu calendar — the hill is believed to be the abode of Hindu deities.

Pilgrimage in the news

Here’s a roundup of some pilgrimage headlines from around the world.

The Uttarakhand government in India is ordering repair on the Char Dham Yatra route in preparation for the annual pilgrimage for Hindus this May. Uttarakhand was heavily hit by devastating floods last year, hurting local communities, extensively damaging infrastructure, and stranding thousands of pilgrims — here’s some coverage on the floods from last year.  The Uttarakhand government is assuring safety for pilgrims this year. 

Kedarnath Temple, Uttarakhand. Source: Wikipedia

In related news, the Uttarakhand government is regulating pilgrimage to Kedarnath, at the center of the disastrous floods last year — only 1000 pilgrims per day will be allowed on the Kedarnath yatra.  Pilgrims who want to visit Kedarnath must have government-issued passes and arrive at the abode of Lord Shiva by helicopter or trek.  The Uttarakhand government is trying to both manage the pilgrimage and launch a global campaign to attract pilgrims and tourists for the Char Dham Yatra beginning in May.

Pilgrims gather in front of Sant’Agnese in Agone church at Piazza Navona on April 26, 2014, in Rome during a vigil on the eve of the canonisation of late Pope John Paul II and John XXIII (AFP Photo/Guiseppe Cacace)

Pilgrims and dignitaries are flocking to Rome for the canonization of former Roman Catholic popes John XXIII and John Paul II as saints.  It’s estimated that 800,000 pilgrims will arrive in Rome to mark the occasion.

Pilgrimage, maps, and movement

I’ve argued elsewhere that pilgrimage is a barometer of religious pluralism and political openness, in part because pilgrimage requires populations to travel across borders and access shrines.  In some cases, the shrines may be associated with a minority religious tradition, or even embattled, multiple claims to a sacred site.  Moreover, once pilgrims have reached a shrine, they must be able to return home again.

Al-Jazeera has reported that 2014 opened with sectarian violence and a suicide car bombing near Quetta on Pakistani Shias returning from a pilgrimage to Iran.  Of 50 pilgrims on a bus, at least two pilgrims were killed in the attack.  These pilgrims had successfully made their journey, and they were coming home again — and they weren’t attacked until they were back inside Pakistani borders.

Borders can prove challenging for pilgrimage: I have written about Shia pilgrims, many Iranian, traveling across borders to shrines in Iraq.  In these cases, not only are pilgrims themselves deeply symbolic in political and religious conflicts. Rather, pilgrimage places — and movement back and forth to these places — also make the conflict physical, focusing on a particular location and the historic meaning invoked by that place.

In that sense, I find it useful to think about pilgrimage, movement, and conflict by looking at a map.  Here’s a political map showing the internationally recognized borders of Pakistan, Iran, and surrounding countries.  Just the extent of the political borders here gives some sense of the vulnerability of pilgrims crossing from one country to another — and, as the Al-Jazeera report states, the method of travel in a large passenger bus, creates a particular target.

Here’s a map that specifically shows Quetta, Pakistan — the attack occurred on the outskirts of this city.  There’s a context of place here, including a rise in sectarian violence between Sunni and Shia Muslims in Pakistan in 2013 near Islamabad.  This impacts the climate for pilgrims as far away as Quetta — and two bomb attacks on Shias and the Hazara ethnic community killed almost 200 people last year.

December attacks on pilgrims in Iraq & why target pilgrims?

English: Imam Husayn Shrine (Karbala, Iraq) (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

Social unrest and sectarian violence in Iraq continue to manifest via attacks on pilgrims.  On December 19, suicide bombings targeting Shi’ite pilgrims in Iraq killed at least 36 people.  This was a wave of attacks: the first suicide bomb killed at least 16 Shi’ite pilgrims near a funeral tent in a southern Baghdad neighborhood; the second near Latifiya south of Baghdad kill at least nine ethnic Turkmen pilgrims coming from Kirkuk in the north; and the third near Latifiya killed another 11 people.

No group has claimed responsibility, but these were the lastest in of a series of attacks on Shi’ite civilians and government buildings.  Reuters notes that Sunni Islamist militants have been regaining ground in Iraq and seeking to undermine the Shi’ite-led government.

Shi’ite pilgrims beat their chests in a ceremony to mark the religious ritual of Arbaeen in Kerbala, about 80 km (50 miles) southwest of Baghdad, December 24, 2013. CREDIT: REUTERS/MUSHTAQ MUHAMMED

These attacks occurred in advance of a major holy day, Arbaeen: this commemorates the death of Prophet Mohammad’s grandson Hussein, a major figure in Shi’ite Islam.  This is a truly massive pilgrimage to Karbala — a holy city in Iraq and the historic location of the seventh century CE Battle of Karbala, in which Hussein and his supporters were killed.  This battle is extremely important in Shi’ite history.  AFP says hundreds of thousands make the pilgrimage to Karbala to honor Hussein, many on foot.  (The Tasnim news agency out of Tehran estimates 20 million — a claim that may well provoke skepticism — though when travel is stretched out over the 40 days of the ritual, other outlets have noted pilgrims in the millions.)